Idea for Budding Carpenters

Anyone with small children should be teaching them the basics of carpentry and construction, wouldn't you agree?

Whatever your motivation, you might enjoy taking your kids to one of Home Depot's "Kid's Workshops". One Saturday a month, they offer free activities for kids. I took my three kiddos this morning and they had a blast. Abby (3) built a bean-bag toss game and Noah (5) built a helicopter. Anna (1.5) just watched. All of it was free. Of course, they're hoping that we will shop there. (I'm there nearly everyday during the week, so I'd say they owe me a helicopter or two... :)

I'm not really trying to promote Home Depot, however, my kids love doing these activities and getting to do some hammering and nailing. They even love getting dressed up in their orange aprons and look forward to going back the next time.

Next time, maybe they could do something with nail guns or at least a miter saw.

-Peter

www.CarpentryGuy.com

Crown Moulding- How to Get Tight Outside Corners

I was installing crown moulding at my current kitchen remodel and thought I'd cover some tips for installing it. Let's start with those pesky outside corners. How do you get them to match up just right?

The first step is to get the cuts right. See yesterday's post for that lesson.

Then, before I work on the outside corner I like to cut the other end of each piece involved in the outside corner. This may mean a coped cut that will fit with the adjoining piece.

After making this cut and/or coping it, I like to hold it in place if possible so that the long end runs past the corner. Then, I can mark exactly where the corner is and make the cut. Even still, I may cut it just a bit long and test fit it to make sure it will be snug.

When that's finished, DON'T NAIL IT yet... Lay it aside and do the opposite piece for the corner. Cut it in the same fashion and test fit it with the first piece to make sure there will be no gaps.

Now that the pieces are cut to fit, lay them on the floor (or a flat work table if they'll fit). Add a bit of wood glue to one end and nail them together with small brads. I use 1" brads for this. Usually, I can get two brads in each side. You have to hold them carefully and get those nails in right or you may be taking all apart to fix it!

With the corner now assembled perfectly, you can hold the pieces in place and nail them up there. If your corner is square and the ceiling level this will leave you with an outside corner that you can be proud of, even without caulk!

By the way, this process also works great for other outside corners like baseboard, especially then there are small pieces with weird angles involved.

-Peter

www.CarpentryGuy.com

Tips for Installing Crown Moulding

I thought I'd share a couple tips to installing 'standard' crown moulding that may save you some time and improve your work as well. Let's start with some preparations.

PREPARE FOR SUCCESS

Like most jobs, the prepwork is foundational to ending up with quality work. Crown can be a frustrating character, especially if you're working by yourself. The first thing I like to do is lay a piece of the trim against the fence of my miter saw (since I know it's square) and measure how far down the wall the trim will come. (See picture)

The particular crown came 3" down from the ceiling, so I went around the entire room and made a mark at 3", especially in the corners. If you want, you can even mark this with a chalk line. The purpose is to give you a reference point so that your crown doesn't twist or gradually rise or fall as you go along. Keeping it level is one key to having tight joints.

USE THE TRIANGLES

Cutting crown can be a real mystery to figure out. I used to have to think very hard and make lots of test cuts before I figured out the system. Well, I've gotten better at, but I've also discovered the triangle.

Most miter saws will have a triangle mark (or circle) on them, to use as a 'cheater' for cutting crown. You probably have two sets of them depending on the type of crown, depending on the angle that the crown is to the ceiling. I won't get too technical, but my crown was the 38/52 type which meant that I could use the triangles at miter angle of 31.6 degrees and a bevel of 33.9 degrees.

You don't have to know all the technical stuff to do this. Just put your saw at the two triangle marks and cut with the crown laying flat on the saw. You still have to think a little bit to make sure you're doing it the right way, but if you trust the triangle, your cuts will likely be more reliable.

NOTE: Another way to cut is to lean the crown, usually upside down, against the fence of your miter saw at the same angle that it will be against the ceiling. With this position you won't use the triangles, but the actual angles that you're working with for each dimension. This position may be helpful if you have non standard angles for corners or if your crown is non-standard angle to the corner.

INSTALL THE CROWN

I like to do the longest run first, because it can be cut square on each end. Then, I usually do the next one to the left because it will have a square cut on the left end of it and a coped cut (using the triangles and your handy coping saw) to join up to the previous piece. An outside corner will interrupt this pattern, but you can continue after the corner around the room.

Start nailing at the end that joins the previously installed piece. I usually work alone, so I have to make a jig or at least lean a 2x4 against the wall to support the other end until I get to it. Make sure to get those corners tight and keep the crown level along those lines you made on the wall.

Finally, this is the time to use a finish nailer with some long nails. I usually use 2 1/2" finish nails that I can shoot up through the middle of the crown into the plates at the top of the wall. You need to hit something solid or the crown will eventually sag and crack the caulk if it's painted. If you can't find a stud or anything solid, you can criss-cross two nails in the same spot that will hold the crown pretty good as long as you're hitting studs most of the time.

Crown can really transform a room which is what makes this project so fun. Hopefully, these tips help keep the fun from getting squashed for you!

-Peter

www.CarpentryGuy.com

Carpentry Basics- Make Accurate Cuts

One of the basics of any type of construction work is to make accurate measurements. Many people can get by with "close enough" but sometimes, the cut needs to be perfect in order to fit.

To get accurate measurements, you have pay attention and think a little more as you measure and cut.

First, measure the length to be cut exactly. For instance, I was cutting several pieces today that needed to be 51 inches long. They all needed to be the same in order to fit snugly. So, I marked the lumber at 51 inches... -WAIT!

This is the important part- How do you mark it??

To get accurate cuts you have to watch where you put the mark. Is it right on 51"? Is it just above/below? This is very important.

I've developed the habit of always marking just above the measurement. This way, you will cut "on the mark" leaving no pencil line on the finished piece. So, for a 51" cut, my pencil mark is to the right of the 51" line.

When I make the cut on the miter saw, I line up the left edge of the blade with the left edge of my pencil mark, assuming I measured from my left. This way, the remaining piece is exactly 51".

Once you start paying attention to this it will become habit. You'll probably be surprised at how your cuts will get better and you won't have to "re-do" as often.

-Peter

www.CarpentryGuy.com

Coping Baseboard Inside Corners

When trimming an inside corner with crown moulding, the best way to make the joint is to 'cope' the corner with a coping saw. This is also true when laying baseboard or even shoe moulding. Here's how it works with baseboard like I was doing this week:

1. Install the first piece with the end square and flush with the wall.

2. The next piece will get 'coped'. Cut the end at a 45 degree angle with the back being the longer edge. (See Fig. 1)

3. Grab a coping saw. Cut along this edge with the saw angled back into the board (Fig. 2). You may want to lightly sand your cut to make a really smooth edge.

4. When you've got it right, the front edge will sit flush with the piece you've already installed with no gaps and you're done!

Coping is better because even if the piece moves a little, as trim will do sometimes, there will not be a gap because the boards overlap. If you cut both boards with a 45 degree angle and one moves, then you'll have a gap in the corner.

-Peter

www.CarpentryGuy.com

How To (Carefully) Remove Trim

There are many times when trim needs to be a removed for a project, but saved and possibly reused. Trim often breaks easily or gets damaged when removed. Here are some steps to take that will help:

1. Start by using a utility knife to cut along all of the edges of the trim. This will sever the caulking and allow the trim to come loose. Otherwise you'll likely damage the wall or the trim itself because the caulk adheres so well.

2. Next, I like to use my painter's-all-in-one tool, which is like a fancy putty knife, to pry the trim from the wall. It is much thinner than a pry bar and less likely to damage things. This tool has a ton of uses, but I've found nothing better for getting trim off without causing trouble. Once you get it loose you could use a pry bar in some places. Just be careful not to pry against the drywall where there is no stud because this will quickly put a hole or indention in the drywall.

3. After the trim is off get some end nipper pliers to get the nails out of it. DON'T use a hammer to beat them backwards, instead, use the pliers to pull them from the back of the trim. This way, the front of the trim is not damaged whatsoever. It will be ready to put back up with only the new nail holes to cover, not the old ones as well.

4. Finally, label the trim on the back so you'll know where it came from. This will be especially helpful if you have several pieces that look alike. It will save you from having to play the trim-matching game later.

-Peter

www.CarpentryGuy.com